When purchasing a new central air conditioning unit there are five guidelines to keep in mind that will keep you on track and make sure you do not waste your hard earned money. These guidelines are just what they say they are: guidelines. They are not laws or rules you need to follow, but they are suggestions that are meant to guide you towards buying the right central air conditioner for you and your home.

WHAT TYPE OF AIR CONDITIONER DO YOU NEED?

There are many brands of central air conditioning units available to purchase from any hardware or appliance store. Some sales associates will try to sell you a window air conditioning unit. Do not let that sales associate talk you into wasting your money. These window air conditioners are a waste of money. They usually only cool one room and they suck a lot of power so you will be spending a lot more money each month on the utility bill. Remember that if you have multiple rooms or a house, you want a central air unit. Do not let the sales associate trick you into anything else.

INSTALLATION OF MY CENTRAL AIR CONDITIONING UNIT:

One more detail to consider is installation. Most people do not want to crawl under, over, around, and through the walls of their house to install a new air conditioner. That is why most places that sell these units also install them for you. Some places install these free of charge with the purchase of a new unit. Even if they don't do it free, you should get someone to professionally install your new unit. It will save you time, headaches, and sweat if you do. If they do not offer installation, you may want to look elsewhere to purchase your unit. It is much easier and cost efficient to get this all done in one step.

TEMPURATURE SETTINGS:

Most new units come with a new thermostat. You should make sure this thermostat can create the ideal temperature that suits you and your family. If you are comfortable in a room that is 60, then make sure the unit will cool to that temperature. You also need to make sure you can increase and decrease the temperature in 1 or 2 increments just in case you are not comfortable.

FILTERS:

There are many filters out there today. The ones that are permanent are the best value. You simply take them out, hose them down, and stick them back in. They save you a lot of money every year, not to mention you don't have to keep track of what size you need. Just remember to clean them once a month. Also, make sure your unit supports these filters.

ENERGY SAVER:

You should also look to see if your new unit has a sleep setting or an energy saving setting. This allows the unit to run when you are sleeping or not home and not run up your bill. It will keep the house a little warmer when you are not home, and then cool it before you come home. This saves hundreds of dollars a year.

Keeping these in mind, finding the perfect unit will be a snap and could turn out to be a fun shopping experience. Just ask the sales associate for more details if you need help. They can be most helpful if these guidelines still have you guessing.

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First and foremost, you may be able to narrow down the selection by some major factors. Based on the size, weight, and shape of your work materials, does the hinge need to be small and delicate or heavy and durable?

Another factor to consider is that, while most hinges are reversible (either end can be mounted in the upright position); some are made for either a right- or left-hand door. One example of this is the loose-pin hinge. With this hinge, common for hanging doors, the pin must be removed from the top; therefore, you cannot reverse a loose-pin hinge.

You can tell if you need a right- or left-hand hinge by standing on the outside of the door. If the door opens from you toward your right-hand side, you need right-hand hinges. If it opens from you toward your left-hand side, you need to stock up on left-hand hinges.

Also think about how much of the hinge you would like to be showing when the door is closed. If the hinge is showing, should it be decorative in nature or can it be simple and functional in design? If you would prefer most of the hinge to be concealed, will this affect the functionality and ease of use in any way?

Below is an alphabetical list of some of the most popular hinges and their common uses. If you have any questions, speak with a salesperson when you go to purchase the hinges. And happy hinging!

A version of the butt hinge, the back flap hinge is smaller and mostly used for furniture.

Butt hinges are usually between 13 and 150mm in size. They come in two varieties: rigid pin (pin cannot be removed) and loose pin (pin can easily be tapped out with a screwdriver). They are used for mounting regular doors and cabinet doors. The rising butt hinge is designed for use on doors that rest on shag carpeting.

The benefits of the butterfly hinge, used on light-weight doors, lay in the variety of shapes and patterns available and their ease to fit.

The double acting hinge opens in either direction and is used mostly for folding doors.

The flush hinge is not as strong as a butt hinge, and is used mostly as a cabinet hinge. The flush hinge is recommended for use on light doors and in situations where you would prefer to conceal the entire hinge except the barrel.

Knuckle hinges are loose joint hinges that are decorative in nature. Although they can hold a significant amount of weight, their design ensures that a closed door shows only the knuckle of the hinge. Knuckle hinges are recommended for door mountings.

Offset blind hinges are designed to allow a full opening and swing-away such as that typically found on screen or storm doors.

Parliament hinges are recommended when the hinge pin must project beyond the door face.

The pivot hinge is versatile, being used for recessed doors, overlay doors, or flush doors. A benefit of the pivot hinge is that it doesn't need a door frame for mounting.

As the name indicates, the spring loaded hinge contains a spring-loaded mechanism to automatically close the door. Models with adjustable tension features are available.

Table top hinges are recommended for situations where one leaf in a section of wood must be dropped.

Concealed hinges typically come in sizes of 25mm and 36mm. The concealed hinge's benefits include being adjustable once fitted. It was designed for use with chipboard and MDF.

Specialty hinges include strap hinges, T hinges, and continuous hinges. Strap and T hinges are available in several sizes and are recommended for heavy installation situations. The continuous hinge, on the other hand, is used mostly on chest lids, cabinets or where a long hinge is necessary. Also called a piano hinge, the continuous hinge comes in brass or steel and in many sizes.

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There are three types of doors: entry doors, interior doors, and combination storm/screen doors. The five steps below describe the technique for replacing an entry door. If you can master replacement of an entry door, replacing most interior doors is actually a simplified version of that process, as the locks are typically simpler or nonexistent. Replacement of combination storm/screen doors can follow the same process as that of entry doors, or it can become more complicated. If you are unsure about the process for installing a combination storm/screen door, check your manufacturer's information for additional instructions or speak with a representative of the manufacturer or store that sold you the door.

Remove the old door.

To remove the old door, open it and wedge under the outer corner to take weight off the hinges. Once the door has been removed, set it aside to use as a pattern in trimming the new door unless it is seriously warped or damaged.

To remove the door, follow one of the two options below.

A popular method for hanging doors is the use of loose-pin hinges. With loose-pin hinges, half the hinge attaches to the door and the other half to the doorframe. Both halves are held together by a pin. If this is the type of hinge you're dealing with, remove the pin by tapping it up and completely pulling it out. Start with the bottom hinge and work your way up. Once the hinges have been removed, you can take the door off the frame.

In some older homes, a different type of hinge may be used or the pin cannot easily be removed because it has been covered by layers of paint. In this case, unscrew the hinges from the doorframe (still working from bottom to top) and remove the door.

Remove hinge leaves.

Remove the hinge leaves from the door and the frame. You can choose to either reuse the original hinges or hang new ones. If you reuse the original ones, you can buff them with sandpaper and spray them with a clear protective coating. For new hinges, simply insure that they are the same size as the old ones.

Once you have gotten the hinges in the shape you want them, install the new hinge leaves on the door frame. Be sure your screws are long enough to pierce both the frame and the stud-wall framing. This is an extra security measure.

Trim new door.

If possible, use the original door as a pattern for the new one. Alight the top and side edges and see whether the new door needs to be cut down along the bottom. If you cannot use the old door as a pattern, measure the door opening and allow a 1/8" bottom clearance and 1/16" top and side clearance. If the door opens over carpet, increase the bottom clearance to 3/4" or more. Mark the appropriate dimensions on the new door.

Trim the bottom of the door with a fine-toothed saw. Alternatively you can work from the corners to the center of the bottom edge with a block plane. Also use a jack plane for edge trimming if necessary. To prevent binding when the new door is opened, bevel the latch edge inward.

Prepare new door for hinges.

The first step in preparing the door for the hinges is to create the new mortises, which are carved or routed-out depressions where the hinge blades are placed, which keeps the surface even. Again using the old door for a pattern, mark hinge mortise locations. If you choose not to pattern after the old door, stick the new door in the opening and wedge it 1/8" from the bottom. Mark the hinge locations on the door.

Next, set the door on its latch edge. Use a square and pencil or knife to draw a line across the door edge at each hinge location. Outline the new hinge on the door by using the hinge leaf as a template.

Score marked edges for the hinge mortises with a wood chisel. Do not cut deeper than hinge leaf thickness. Angle the same chisel with beveled edge downward. Make several cuts in the scored area, again to the depth of the hinge leaf. Remove wood chips with a chisel. Insert the hinge leaf to double check fit, but do not affix it to the door.

Typically, doors taller than six feet require three hinges for weight distribution. Place the middle hinge halfway between the top and bottom hinges.

Coat door edges with wood sealant. Use wood screws to attach hinge leaves to the new door.

Hang new door.

Placing the newly sealed door in the frame, insert the top and bottom pins. If the fit is acceptable, close the door and mark where the middle hinge falls on the door frame. If the old door had a middle hinge, the best case scenario would involve the new middle hinge falling in exactly the same place, necessitating no work on your part.

If the middle hinge falls differently on the new door, take down the door by removing the bottom hinge pin and then the top. Use the hinge leaf as a template to outline the middle hinge's location on the door frame. Cut the mortise in the same process used for door mortises. Attach the middle hinge to the door frame.

Set the door in place and insert the hinge pins, working top to bottom.

Another project for another day is installing a new lockset. For now, open your new door and go out and celebrate your accomplishment!

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1. It won't stick well.

The top layer of vinyl is similar to plastic and it is very difficult to adhere anything to it. Vinyl is shining with an artificial shine and as your base it isn't porous which means a good bond is very difficult to achieve. No matter what kind of glue you try to apply to the vinyl, your tiles will not bond well to the vinyl. There are some who recommend roughing up the surface of the vinyl for a better bond, but this really isn't an effective method.

Because the tile and vinyl will not adhere well to one another, there might be lifting after you lay the floor. If the vinyl begins lifting and pushing the tile up, you may have to replace a section or the entire floor. If you do tile directly over vinyl or linoleum flooring, you may find at a later date that you need to remove the new tile floor to get to the old vinyl because of lifting and instability. It is probably better to save yourself the time, money and hassle by removing it now.

It is important that your new tile floor is secure and stable and direct adhesion to vinyl flooring will not ensure that. There isn't a mortar on the market that will stick to the surface of vinyl at the level needed for tile installation.

2. It won't be level.

It is much more difficult to get the floor level if you tile right over vinyl. You won't be able to figure out the anchoring pattern when you tile on top of vinyl and this is one of the key factors in a stable and level floor surface. It will also be difficult when trying to insert transitions where the floor rises or where spaces must be filled. If you start with a fresh or existing sub-floor you will have a much more stable and level end result.

3. The sub-surface under the vinyl isn't suitable for tile.

Vinyl flooring is usually installed on 1/4" plywood or particleboard. These substrates are not approved for tile because of a different material make-up. If you lay tile right over vinyl or linoleum the safety of your floor will be compromised. Tile on top of a cushioned floor is very unstable and you can develop cracks in the tiles or the grout. Because vinyl flexes, it can crack the tile. It is nearly impossible to replace a tile with a chip or a crack once it is adhered so you may end up having to replace the entire floor in the future because of the vinyl lifting and flexing.

If you do want to leave your vinyl down, then you need to prepare the floor structurally for the tiling. You will need to screw down the old vinyl and then create a mortar base using mesh and concrete. If you don't want to get into pouring cement, you can lay down a plywood sub-floor. There are products on the market now that increase the crack resistance of tiles placed on wooden sub-floors. This method isn't really much different from lifting the vinyl up. It may seem like a lot of work right now, but taking your time and doing it properly now will save you a lot of time and money down the road.

If you are still determined to keep your vinyl down, then you might consider talking to a professional tile installer. They can go over all of the pros and cons with you and look at your specific situation.

Before you proceed with your plans to tile directly over vinyl flooring, keep all of this information in mind. Not only will you have difficulty with bonding and leveling, but you will also end up with a floor that is unstable and in some cases unsafe. This money-saving and timesaving route could end up costing you a lot in the future.

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The advantages of pavers are numerous. Read on from the list below to find out why you might want to use pavers.

Deck Building. Building a deck is tedious. Even with the simplest designs you should be prepared to spend more money for wrong cuts and other mishaps. Pavers are simpler to use, and less expensive than wood.

Building Permits. If you live out in the country with neighbors far away you'll usually have no problems with building the deck of your dreams. The problem comes in when you live in a residential area with tight building codes you'll have to adhere too. Don't take the chance and spend your hard earned money without looking into the codes for your area. Neighbors can report you and then you'll be fined, and you'll have to remove your deck. In some areas the requirements on deck building include the size, type of wood to use and even color. Usually you'll have no choice if you want a free standing deck as opposed to one that attaches directly to your house. Because of limited space think about easement issues too because the cities building codes won't allow you to encroach on another's property, or stop access to necessary utility lines either. Also look at issues of rot in cases of standing water, and water infiltration from high velocity of water runoff. If your deck is built off of the second floor, it's a disaster waiting to happen. Pavers can easily fit to building codes.

Landscaping. Look at how your ground landscaping design fits in with a deck. Are bushes and flowers shown to their best advantage? Building a deck could cost more that the deck itself for your landscaping needs. Pavers can be sheared to fit you yard.

Space. Decks are meant to give a sense of escape. If you feel cramped in, your deck won't be used to much. Other decorative items such as flower pots are likely to be kicked off and trampled on. Look at the fact that most people love cooking out on their deck, and a grill just might not fit, or be very useful around the railing of the deck. If the deck itself on the second floor, ashes end up on kitchen or bedroom windows below, and you'll have an ashy mess to continually clean up during the summer. Pavers give a sense of more space, so more room to move in.

Portability. Decks are stationary once you build them. With pavers you can place them so that if you need to move them, you can. Reasons you might want to move them are to add a new landscape design to your yard, or if you just need a change of scenery. Also consider the fact that if you know you'll be moving soon, pavers will add some value to your home and at the same time can be enjoyed by you, and easily removed by the new occupants.

Renting. Most landlords won't approve of any new structure being added to their house. There are varied reasons why such as the design, faulty construction, building permits issue, and liability for insurance in case you or a new renter get hurt. Even if the landlord's liability insurance does cover it, most don't want to have any wood or siding removal done on their rental property. This is really true if you live in a historically designated district where the city directs what can be done to a home. Pavers might be allowed if they can be moved by the landlord. When renting always check with them because if you don't and something happens you could be held liable.

Pavers are a good idea, and really have a lot of advantages over your typical wood deck.

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Oil based paints are sometimes a little more difficult to use that water based latex paint. Oil based paints are thicker than latex paint so it will require different kinds of brushes and rollers. Also, when using oil based paints, it is a good idea to paint in a well ventilated area. It does have a stronger odor. The good thing about oil based paint is that it can be bought at any paint store and tinted to almost any color. Oil based paints are also called solvents and made from a mixture of resin and oils.

When looking at oil based paints, it is important to remember that most of the time you will need to prime the area first. Oil based paints have a tendency to peel if the area is not primed properly. This can happen if the base coat is already oil based paint. When priming the area, you must clean the area first. Then you can apply a primer. Primer can be bought at any home improvement or paint store. Primer can be applied like spray paint or brushed on with a brush. If you are painting over a very dark color, or using a dark color with the new paint, you should consider having the primer tinted first.

If you get ready to paint and are not sure whether you are dealing with a wall or area that already has oil paint or latex, there is an easy way to tell. When water is applied to oil based paint, it will usually "bead up". It will not soak in as it does with latex paint. When applying oil based paints, it has the tendency to bubble during painting. Make sure that you never shake oil based paints. Stirring is recommended. Also when using oil based paint, try using only one coat of paint, instead of several. After applying the oil based paints to your project, it will take longer to dry than latex paint. Provide plenty of ventilation during the drying process.

It is also important to remember that when using oil based paints, that they are considered toxic and hazardous waste. Caution should be used when disposing of oil based paints.

There are several projects that will benefit from using oil based paint.

Trim: When painting indoor trim, such as bead board, window trim, crown molding, chair rails and trim around doors, oil based paints are generally used. This is because oil based paints can withstand more wear and tear than latex paints. As a general rule, oil based paints are also easier to clean than latex paint.

Doors: Indoor doors are usually painted with oil based paints. It is very simple to clean fingerprints, smudges and dirt off of doors when painted with oil based paint. An outside door is often painted using oil based paints, as well.

Decorating projects: If you are working in small projects, such as painting shelves or raw wood, oil based paints can be a good option. Proper preparation is required. Raw wood will need to be sanded and primed before using oil based paints. Remember that primer should be dried thoroughly before using any oil based paints. This will give you better coverage.

Exterior: Some projects outside can be good for using oil based paints. Oil based paints are perfect for trims, such as around windows, and other trim around the outside of the house.

Metal: Projects that are made out of metal can also benefit from oil based paints. It is important to remember that oil based paints should never be applied directly to fresh masonry or on iron. As with any projects, proper prepping and primer will be required.

Oil based paints can be a good choice for many projects because it is often longer lasting and easy to clean. Proper preparation is always needed when painting with oil paints.

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Learn all about how and why doors and windows stick and how to fix them, so you're not stuck the next time opportunity pays a visit!

Stuck Windows

Windows can stick for a variety of reasons. Often wood expands and contracts, moving parts have been painted over, or two surfaces may simply seem fused together. Some of the most common problems and fixes for stuck windows are:

Painted-over joint: Cut the paint with a window zipper (tool designed just for this purpose) or a putty knife. Hold blade flat against the sash and push the edge into the joint while drawing the tool along the surface.

Paint build-up: Similar to when joints are painted over, years of painting can also result in an accumulation that causes excessive friction. Use a paint scraper to remove excess paint from the window stop, parting strip, and blind stop. Raise and lower the sash throughout the process. For a lower sash, it is also a possibility to remove the window stop to sand and scrape the edges facing the window. If none of the easier solutions were successful, remove both sashes and completely strip the paint to the bare wood. Repaint the sashes and reinstall when the pain has dried.

Too much friction: Lubricate the sash channels with candle wax or talcum powder. This can also prevent painted surfaces from sticking together. If spring metal weather-stripping is found in the sash channels, reduce tension by using a hammer and block of wood to flatten the strip.

Just plain stuck. A sharp rap to the center rail, near the lock can sometimes break a bond between painted surfaces. The blow can be administered with the palm of your hand or a rubber mallet. Another option is to gently tap a wooden block again the sides of the sash.

New friction channels. If you have some extra time on your hands and are very concerned with preventing heat loss, another option is to install new friction channels. To do this, first remove sashes, weights and pulleys.

Push fiberglass insulation into the openings for the weigh cavities. Start at the top and work your way down with the aid of a flexible rod or stick.

Using a hammer and sharp chisel, notch the ends of the top parting strip to create the new channels.

Replace the sashes in the window frame between the two new channels. Tilt the entire assembly into the opening from the bottom inside.

Finally, reinstall interior stops according to the manufacturer's instructions for adjusting tension. If windows are too loose after the stops have been installed, increase tension by hammering a wood block against the stop at nail placements. When the tension seems right to you, drive in several nails.

Stuck Doors

Doors can stick for many of the same reasons as windows too much tension, or painting over moving parts. However, with the addition of hinges, that also opens up a whole new area of possible reasons for stuck doors.

Door rubs against jamb. The solution to this problem differs according to which side the door is rubbing against the jamb on. If the door rubs against the jamb on the hinge side, you will need to shim the hinges out. Unscrew the hinge from the jamb and place a piece of cardboard behind it. Shimming out the bottom hinge may resolve the problem of a door binding at the top of the strike jamb.

If the door rubs against the jamb on the side without the hinge or against another part of the door frame, the door may need to be modified so it will fit. Mark the door with scribe lines so you know where to plane and remove the door (removing bottom pin first and working your way upward). Lay the door on a flat surface and plane the appropriate edges.

Loose hinge screws. To fix loose hinge screws, wedge the door open and remove the screws. Fold back the hinge, being careful not to lose any existing shims. Buy or whittle wood pieces to fit the holes. Add glue and push the wood pieces into the holes. Scrape the wood plugs until they are flush, fold the hinge back into place, drill pilot holes and drive in new screws.

Moving a stop. Sometimes it's easier to move the stop than unwarp a door. If a door is binding against the hinge-side stop or will not close properly because of an improperly placed stop on the latch side, pry off the offending stop. Close the door and draw a line, along the doors inside edge, on the jamb. Nail the stop on this line.

Moving a strike plate. A latch and strike may get out of alignment because a house had settled. If the strike plate is too far away, shim it out with cardboard. If it is too close, unscrew the strike, chisel out a new mortise, drill pilot holes, and replace the strike. If necessary, use wood putty to fill the old mortise hole and sand until smooth.

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While wood was once the first choice material for garage doors, steel, fiberglass and other synthetics are now the choice for many homes. These materials allow for a classic look, tailored to your preferred colors, without the hassle wood doors once provided. The tongue and groove features on newer models keep the wind, rain, and snow out of your garage area. They seal as well or better than most exterior doors on homes. Many often come with new safety standards too. Most will not close if they hit an object as they are closing. This means that whether it is your child's bike, your car bumper, or you dog, nothing will get crushed. Some even have a design that will push objects out of the way of panels as they close together. This can prevent crushed fingers should your little ones wriggle away from you as the door is closing. If you want natural light in your garage, but you do not want the security problems glass might cause, newer doors offer plastic windows that look like glass. This means that you can have the style you want without the security risk. Some companies have even gone so far to protect your valuables that your garage door opener sends a different code to your garage each time you open it. That means intelligent thieves who have the technology to steal codes will find it impossible to take yours.

While these new advances in garage door technology are great, they simply do not fit well with the modern do-it-yourself individual. The doors are both large and heavy. This can not only cause lifting problems, it can also prove impossible for inexperienced individuals. Should the door fall, it will easily crush the individual handling installation. Moreover, the springs that are used to help the doors open, store and release force, which can instantly kill a person. Not only should you choose not to replace a garage door by yourself, you should not choose to complete serious service tasks. At most, you should occasionally oil the wheels, hinges, and tracks. Any other projects should be left to garage door professionals, as your life simply is not worth the risk of a garage door.

If despite this warning, you insist on installing the garage door yourself, be sure you have a few extra pairs of hands around. Assistance with tough tasks can be one of the most important do it yourself safety tasks. When you get ready to start installation, be sure to begin with the weather stripping. This will keep the drafts and moisture out of your garage. If improperly installed, you could experience some real problems in your home. You will also be required to rent or purchase a spring tensioning tool. Renting or purchasing poor equipment in this case is just not a good idea. These springs can maim and even kill people who do not know how to properly use them. Going cheap on equipment in this arena simply is not a good choice.

When it comes down to it, yes, you can replace your garage door by yourself. You probably have the ability and the skills. However, because of the dangers involved, hiring a professional to do it for you is really a better and safer bet in the long run.

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Track lighting, of course! Track lighting offers the opportunity to much better control the mood and emphasis of a room's lighting. With so many colors and styles, it is just as beautiful as it is functional.

If wiring through a junction box would tax your electrical skills past their limit, track lighting kits are available that simply plug in to the wall. They can't be beat for ease of installation, but they do not look as professional and unobtrusive as those that are actually mounted through the ceiling.

If you are ready for installation that is a little more challenging, follow these easy steps to mount track lighting and give Junior's pice de rsistance the attention it deserves!

Materials Needed

Drill / screwdriver

Electrical cable and tape

Ladder or stepstool

Long-nose or electrician's pliers

Neon tester / voltage meter

Tape measure

Toggle bolts

Track light kit

Wire nuts

1.Turn off the power. Turn off electrical power to appropriate junction box through the breaker box or service panel. Ensure that the circuit is dead with a neon tester or voltage meter. Once you are certain the power is off, remove the existing fixture and carefully disconnect wires, keeping exposed ends separate from each other.

2.Wire the live end. Put live end into the track and secure it by tightening the setscrew. Attach the live end to the mounting bracket.

Use pigtail leads to finish wiring the live end. "Pigtail" leads are short wires connected to terminals. Wire nuts are then used to connect the pigtail leads to the home wiring. Secure the black pigtail lead to the brass screw, the white pigtail to the silver screw, and the green (or bare) pigtail to the green grounding screw.

3.Lay out the track location. Decide on track location based on the existing junction box and which areas you'd like the lights to bring focus to. You can purchase fittings for Ts or angles; but double check that the fittings you want are offered by the manufacturer of your chosen track light system.

Mark mounting holes to indicate position. Ensure the track runs parallel to a wall by measuring out an equal distance from the wall to either end of the track. Remember to place tracks an appropriate distance (at least 6") from potentially flammable materials. On the marked places, drill holes for toggle bolts or screws.

4.Mount the track. Place circuit and fixture wires in junction box and install the mounting plate on the box. Snap the track into place on the junction box by following instructions provided for your specific track lighting system.

Put toggle bolts/screws through new track mounting and lift the track to the ceiling. (Recruit helpers' beforehand if the track if very heavy or unwieldy.) Into the mounting holes, insert toggle wings but do not tighten. Attach any fittings (Ts or angles) and additional track sections desired, and insert end pieces at the end of the completed track.

Insert the electrical adapter into the track and twist to attach it. Install the cover over the mounting plate assembly and adapter. Place fixtures into the track and twist to secure.

Screw in appropriate bulbs as recommended by the manufacturer.

Make connections to house wiring. Twist wire connectors onto the matching colored house and pigtail wires to lock them together. Secure the mounting plate to the ceiling box with the screws provided. Tighten toggle bolts/screws.

Apply the finishing touches. Turn the power back on and test the lights. If they fail, turn off and double check the current with a neon tester or voltage meter. Also check your work for missing connections.

Once power has been restored, adjust head angle and position to shine light where you want it. For added versatility, consider purchasing a dimmer to make subtle changes in the strength of the lighting. Relax and enjoy your next dinner party when Junior's masterpiece is lavishly complimented, thanks to the superior showcasing.

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On the "do-it-yourself" (DIY) scale, repairing or replacing screens is relatively easy and requires little elbow grease. The only materials required are:

new screening or screen patches

scissors

household cement

screen rolling tool

razor knife

square

1×2 and 1×4 stock to stretch the new screening

stapler

brads

wood putty

Screen Repairs

If you have noticed a small hole in your window screen, less than about 3" in diameter, you can simply repair the hole. Plastic screens are difficult to patch and should probably replaced. Fiberglass screens can go either way, while metal screens are easy to patch.

Measure the hole(s) and buy ready-made patches or cut them from new screening. For small holes, the patch should have a minimum diameter at least a half-inch larger than the hole. Larger holes require a full inch extra diameter of replacement screening.

To insert the patch into the screen, unravel quite a few strands around the patch's edges. Interweave these strands with the screening and bent until the patch is held tightly in place. The stands can usually be bent by hand, but if the screening is heavier you can use long-nosed pliers. Plastic patches also require some household cement on the strand ends after they have been woven into the screen.

Small holes (less than 3/8") with some household cement.

Screen Replacement

Replacing screens in metal and wooden frames can require different procedures. Because replacing screens in metal frames is easier, I'll discuss that process first and then move on to replacement of screens in wood frames.

Replace screening in a metal frame

Remove the screen from the window and lay on a hard, flat surface large enough to support the entire frame.

Remove rubber edging from the old screen. Set aside for reuse if it is in good shape. If not, discard it. Measure and cut new rubber edging.

Remove the old, damaged screening. The damaged screening and any scraps can be saved for future repairs.

Using the old screening as a pattern or measurements of the window, measure out the new screening from a replacement roll. Be certain to leave sufficient excess screening on all sides typically enough to reach the outsides of the frame and a bit more.

With a screen rolling tool, start in a corner of the frame to tighten the screening into place. Press the rubber edging into the groove and secure the screening in the frame. Work your way slowly and with a steady hand around the screen. This helps avoid the errors of bending the screen frame, which is often made of thin aluminum, and ripping the screening with the screen rolling tool.

If you are finding the process difficult, try tacking the material to the frame first (recommended for fabric but not aluminum) or use a spreader to support long screens.

When the screening is pressed tightly into the frame, trim excess material with a razor knife.

Replace the screen in the window. Sit back and relax in your insect-free home!

Replace screening in a wood frame

Replacing the screening in a wood frame can be more challenging because of the care necessary in affixing the screening to the frame.

In the existing frame, start in the center of a strip of screen molding and work toward the ends, prying slowly along the way. Be careful not to break it.

For wood frames, the wedge method of stretching ensures tight screening for a quality finished product. For this method, have some 1×2 stock that is slightly wider than the frame handy. Also use 1×4 stocks to make the wedges.

Cut new screening from a replacement roll. Be certain to leave sufficient excess screening on all sides typically enough to reach the outsides of the frame and a bit more.

Staple screening across top edge. Nail the bottom cleat to a bench or flat surface and install the 1×2 cleats. Roll the new screening over the cleats and nail to the top cleat.

Between the cleats and screen frame, insert the wedges. Tap wedges until the screen is pulled taut.

Every few inches, put a staple in the screening along the bottom and then the sides.

Trim excess screening. Countersink brads to refit screen moldings and fill holes with wood putty.

Finally, staple the entire screen tightly in place working from the center brace outward. Remove the wedges and the screen should stay taut. Use a screen rolling tool or putty knife to replace the screen moldings. As with the metal-framed screen, relax and enjoy the peace and quiet your hard work has afforded you!

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Antennas and satellite dishes are popular ways to connect your television or other different technical equipment. By investing in a dish or antenna, you will have more choices in your home for your entertainment. Dishes and antennas can pick up miles worth of reception for television stations. By installing your own antenna or satellite dish, you will be able to save money.

Before you decide to install an antenna or satellite dish on your roof, there are certain things to consider. By doing so, it will make an easier installation with no complications that may be caused later on. By knowing the directions and details of placing an antenna or satellite dish on your roof, you will be able to enjoy the use of this technology without having to go through re-installing the equipment more than once. By installing an antenna or dish yourself, you can save money and it won't take more than a couple of hours. Be sure to install your new equipment correctly.

1. Installation site. Whether it is an antenna or satellite dish that you are installing, it is important to have a clear path for the dish to receive information. There has to be a clear line of sight between satellites with the entire surface of the dish. The line of site for either the dish or antenna shouldn't be caught in the line of trees, roof tiles, etc. when you place it on your roof.

2. Finding the right place. It is important to keep in mind that with either a dish or an antenna, it is best to put it in a place that not only is clear from any electrical lines, but also allows easy access. By doing this, you will be able to repair or monitor your satellite dish or antenna much easier. If you have to put the dish or antenna on your roof, it is always best to find a place where it isn't going to cause the roof to create leaks into your home.

3. Have the right equipment. There are usually only three parts that you have to connect in order to get the antenna or satellite dish to work right. This includes the dish or antenna, a coax cable that connects the dish to the television and a receiver that plugs directly into your television. When connecting, make sure that the dish or antenna is the shortest distance from where your television is. It is also important to measure the length of the cable in order to determine whether it will reach the dish or antenna from the inside of your home. If needed, you can connect a cable snake to route from further areas if you find it necessary. Other types of equipment which you may need include a drill in order to mount the satellite or antenna in the right place, as well as screws for the dish or antenna.

4. Know which way to point your dish. If you point the dish or antenna in the wrong direction, you won't be able to receive anything. Usually, dishes should be pointed at an angle of twenty-five to fifty degrees. You can find this by a compass that is usually included in the kit that you get when you install your dish.

5. Safety always comes first. When going on your roof to install your antenna or satellite, remember to think of what you need to do in order to prevent yourself from falling. It is best not to go on your roof if the weather has been cold or if it has been raining. Make sure that the ladder that you have is sturdy as well. It is best to have someone hold the ladder for you. Another consideration is to make sure that your shoes have good traction in order to prevent you from falling or slipping while installing the satellite or antenna.

When installing an antenna or satellite dish, there are several things to think through before installation. By knowing the equipment that you need before you go onto your roof, as well as planning out how the dish or antenna will connect to your television, you will prevent hours of repair or work that you may need. By understanding how the dish or antenna will work in relation to your home or television, you will only have to install the equipment once, allowing for an easy installation and several hours of a receptive television.

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This list of tips should help you correct any problem with a fireplace that fills your house up with black silt smoke. Not only does it need to be done because you can't use your fireplace, but smoke from a fireplace ruins walls, carpets and drapes. This type of smoke is almost impossible to get out of any fabric including your clothes. Besides it not healthy to breathe in the smoke and it's especially true with anyone suffering from allergies of any kind.

Stoke up the Fireplace Chimney. Be sure to open your damper. It's usually found in front of the fireplace and it's a simple switch to pull back. Next warm the chimney air by burning newspaper or any other type of safe material in the fireplace. The goal is to get the air warmer in the chimney so it'll push the cold air out and away. Colder air pushes the warmer air down and smoky air can occur.

Use Seasoned Wood. Don't burn green timber in your fireplace. Large fireplace logs tend to cause more smoke because it takes them a while to get hot enough to burn off residue. Small logs are the best choice.

Open Windows. Sometimes there's not enough draft in a room to catch the fireplace to light. It's not as big of a problem if you happen to live in an older house. Older homes were not built as energy efficient as newer models are, there's not much of a draft to circulate for the use of a fireplace. So open one or two windows to help your fireplace start burning.

Purchase Fireplace Bricks. Even though you're using a grate at times it doesn't provide enough air circulation under the wood for it to catch. Smoke is the result that billows into your house. You can buy extra fireplace bricks to build up your grate to a higher level. This will help stop smoking by creating enough draft under the grate.

Scale Down the Fireplace Opening. Extra large fireplaces have more of a problem heating an area. This is usually because the chimney is much smaller than the open hearth part. The trick is to balance the size with the chimney. Certain fireplace stores carry reducers that can be installed. Also look for a shield to catch any smoke that may circulate into the room

Turn Down the Furnace. Smoky air can be created when there's not enough air in the house. For example when it heats the air in the chimney the fan returns it to the house in the form of smoke when your furnace is on. So turn down the furnace to a level that's acceptable for the other rooms, or if you can bear it turn it off.

Clean out Pipes or Raise Them. Sometimes the pipes outside can get clogged from debris or even bird nests. At other times pipes are not long enough and need to be replaced. Cutting back high growing trees and branches will help cut down on smoke in the fireplace too because the air is not stopped from circulating, and pushed back into the house as smoke.

Hire a Professional Cleaning Crew. Smoke from wood can give off a substance known as creosote. This is a natural by product of burning wood in your fireplace. Have your fireplace checked once a year and cleaned. Fireplace maintenance is a safety issue too.

Your fireplace should be something for you to enjoy and not fret over. However fireplaces are like other things around the house that need care and attention. Remember just because it doesn't run off electricity doesn't mean that it can be ignored. It sits patiently for autumn to roll around and to provide you with warmth. In the mean time make sure your ready to go by inspecting it and having it cleaned. In the autumn and winter months you can sit back and enjoy the warmth of the fire and a smoke free house too.

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COMPARE PLUMBERS:

The first thing most people do is call the plumber with the lowest rates. This sounds like the logical thing to do, however it is not always the wisest course of action. This is because hourly rates are hard to compare. Some plumbers charge mileage. Some plumbers start charging as soon as they start the car on the way to your house. Some charge by the minute. Some charge by the quarter hour. Some charge by the half hour.

The best way to choose the best plumber is choose a plumber with a good reputation for customer satisfaction. When you call, see if they have any references. Ask your friends and family if they know of anyone and if they were satisfied. Satisfaction is important. You may spend more at first, but you will only pay for one visit as opposed to several.

MINIMIZE YOUR PLUMBING NEEDS:

The best way to avoid spending too much money on a plumber is to avoid having to call one. The main reason most people call a plumber is drain backups and other drain problems. These can usually be fixed much cheaper than calling a plumber.

Grease clogs are the most common drain problem. This can be fixed by experimenting with several things around the house to see what works best to keep your drain clean. What works for most people is pouring some hot water and vinegar down the drain daily. If your drain is clogged from grease, pouring some hot vinegar down the drain and letting it set for about 20 minutes and then follow that with some boiling water will usually clear it up. Pour the water and vinegar slowly so that it has a better effect on the clog.

The other main clog problem is hair clogs. Usually a mesh catch will remedy this problem. If the drain is clogged, then a drain cleaner from your local grocery store or department store, will fix this problem. You will need to let this sit for fifteen to twenty minutes. Just follow the directions on the package.

BUY YOUR OWN FIXTURES:

Anything that you are going to need to install, such as toilets and sinks, can be bought in advance. Plumbers will try to sell you what they have. They usually mark up the price, so it is way over priced. Buying these in advance will save you a lot of money. However you may want to check with the plumber in advance to see what brands are the best to minimize any confusion later. Some products are made cheaply and many plumbers will not use them or work with them. Discussing this with your plumber in advance will ensure you buy the best item.

REDUCE YOUR NEED:

One of the most overlooked ways to save money on a plumber is to simply check all your fixtures and make sure everything is tightened and attached properly. Sometimes simply checking these things yourself will save you from having to call out a plumber. If there are any leaks or clogs that need to be fixed, make a list of all of them. When the plumber arrives give him the list. Tell him this is exactly what needs to be done. He will get right on it, rather than trying to access the problem. He will be in your home for less time, hence saving you very valuable, hard earned money.

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Here are 3 tips to use before you call your service repairman.

Check your Setting. People have actually called a service technician and they've found out that the only problem was that their temperature setting on their thermostat control was not turned to the proper setting for heating or cooling their home. That's not only embarrassing, but a very expensive call for something so simple. Be sure and check.

Check Breakers and Service Switch. If your service switch isn't on, or any of the other switches aren't on, the furnace won't run. The service switch is located near or on the furnace. Look at the main breaker box in your house too. If it's been tripped it won't come on either. Sometimes all that's need is to replace the service switch if it's gone bad.

Outside Disconnect Switch. Go outside and look around the unit. You'll find a switch that you can flip to turn the outside fan on. Again check your main breaker box inside the house to see if that control has been changed to the off position. Replace outside service switch if needed, as a service technician can easily replace it.

If all of these things are in working order then it'll be time to call your local service company for a complete inspection of your furnace unit. Don't attempt to try to diagnose any serious issues. Not only could you hurt yourself or others, you could void the warranty on your furnace. You'll be completely responsible for the cost at that point. Be wise and call.

Before a major problem develops there are ways to lengthen the life of your furnace.

Filters. Regularly change your filters on your furnace. It's recommended by professional HVAC heating, venting and air conditioning service technicians to change them on monthly bases. If you're furnace type can be fitted for a washable filter, then you'll save some money by using them. You can save some money too by buying your standard filters in bulk. Most hardware supply stores or home improvement stores will either have them in stock as bulk, or they can special order them for you too. When thinking about changing your filters don't forget to include any time that there is a high volume of foot traffic. Holidays and times when doors will be fanned open such as in the summer time, might require you change the filter more. Pet dander will cause more clog for your furnace too.

Vacuum and Wipe Down. Another way to lengthen the life of your furnace is to clean it. Grab a shop vacuum that's works well and clean the furnace. Make sure you vacuum is in good working order, the last thing you'll need is it to be leaking more debris back into the furnace.

Replace Insulation. If your furnace has insulation around or inside the door be sure to examine it for brittleness or huge pieces of it missing. It can further clog up your furnace by being pulled into it when the fan kicks on. It won't take long for it to burn up a motor.

Inspect Wiring. Go outside and look at the wiring that connects your outside cooling and heating fan to see if there are frayed wires or loosening wires from it to the house. Clean away debris from around the fan and if possible wash off the unit with a mild detergent. Pull out any leaves or garbage out of the grill of the fan, so it can run with maximum efficiency.

Clean Vents Inside and Out. Go and take the time to clean out your floor vents. Also look outside and check your duct work to make sure that it hasn't fallen or become tangled. Naturally you run the unit harder because you're not staying cool or warm in the winter, if there is anything clogging or obstructing the air flow. This will shorten the life of your furnace.

Furnace Inspection. Make sure to schedule a yearly inspection on your furnace.

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There are 5 Different nails that are useful around the house. Take a peek at a few of them from the list below.

Common Nails. The common nail is used a lot with wood that doesn't require finish work. Places to use the nails are on 2×4s and other boards surfaces such as particle board and regular wood panels. It has a flat head and comes in different lengths. Usually the nail head is left showing. Use in all of your remolding efforts around you home or garage.

Casing Nails. The casing nails are for all of your finer work needs when dealing with wood. Cabinets and molding trim work is perfect for these types of nails. So if want some new shelves or new kitchen cabinets then make sure you have these on hand. You don't want your detailed work to be ruined by unsightly nail heads.

Finishing Nails. The finishing nails are another nail type, but they can be used interchangeably with casing nails for the fine work at home. The rounded nails heads can be counter sunk or not.

Common Brads. Are rated on length only. They are good for very light, and can be used like the casing nails for trim work. The nails are of lighter weight, and are shorter than the common finishing nails.

Box Nails. Box nails are like a common nail but the head on them is much larger. The shank of the nail is much larger, and is used primarily for framing and decking. If you need extreme holding power then this is the nail for you to have.

Not only will you need to use these types of nails but there might be instances where another type of fastener will come in handy. When you're a home owner you just never know what might break, or what you might like to do! Here's another list of different nail types.

Galvanized Nails. Use these nails when you want to build a dog house, frame or build a wooden sandbox for the kids. They are coated with a solution that is highly resistant to rust. The shank makes them very tough to bend.

Paneling Nails. The paneling nail is colored to match the type of paneling that you want to put up.

Masonry Nails. If you've got a basement and you need to mount something on the wall then the masonry nails are the nails to use.

Aluminum Nails. Aluminum nails are a very soft nail and are to be used only for certain things such as mounting lights for a pool. They're not very strong, but don't rust.

Pointless Nails. The pointless nail is if you're very particular about not splitting any of the wood you're working on. It's good for molding trim work or some corner pieces for baseboards.

There will be other types of holding and latching devices that you'll need around the house too. Decorative screws, bolts, tack nails, and other types of will be necessary at some point in your home maintenance and remolding needs. Take some time and build up your supply. Remember to always use safety precautions when nailing and cutting materials. Wear eye protection to keep any materials from accidentally being poked into the lens of the eye. A good idea to learn more about nails and other fasteners is to get some home repair books, and look at a few examples of how the nails are used in projects for the home. Experience and a little knowledge will go a long way to knowing your nails.

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Five things should come to mind when choosing a bathtub. Those five things are listed and described as follows:

Know the dimensions of your bathroom

should also know how high the ceiling is from the ground. Also you should multiply the length of the bathroom by the width of it, to give you the total square feet. This will help you determine approximately what size your tub should come in. Also, it will determine how high from the ground it will be raised.

Know the dimensions of where your bathtub will go

Once you have measured the total square feet of your bathroom. You should decide how much space you want your tub to use. Some people d not mind if the bath tub takes up most of the space in the bathroom. Yet others will be concerned about it. It is up to you how large your bathtub should be. Just remember you are the one who has to live with the end result. Along with that, you have to remember how useful your house would be to your guests. Likewise, you must thing of the overall value of your home. If you plan on selling it, it is wise to have a large enough tub to relax it, yet small enough that the bathroom is still comfortable to use.

Know which materials bathtubs are made of, and choose

The most common materials that bathtubs are made of are porcelain, marble, stone, concrete and plastic. You should decide which is better for you. Porcelain is more durable than plastic. However, plastic is less expensive. This is especially true if you want to install a whirlpool bath tub. It would cost less than marble.

Also, plastic when scratched is hardly noticeable. ON the contrary, when porcelain is scratched, it leaves a gray film. The reason for this is because the surface of porcelain is actually a top coating which makes the porcelain tub look shinier.

Marble, stone, and concrete tubs are very elegant looking, but can cost a lot. Also, they are best suited for outside whirlpool bath tubs, rather than inside ones.

Have a color in mind After you have chosen the size and material for your bathtub, you should choose a color. Most people choose white, but bathtubs have also been manufactured in a variety of colors. Some colored bathtubs include, ivory, lime green, lavender, and pale yellow. You can shop online and browse your favorite stores. This will give you an idea of what colors are out there. Along with this, you should already have planned a color scheme for your bathroom. Knowing what color scheme your bathroom is will add less frustration later. For example, a person could impulsively a lavender bathtub, then later decided to paint the bathroom lime green. If this happens, then that person will have to return the bathtub, and may find that the color they really wanted is not in stock. To avoid this frustration, you should plan ahead. Remember, pick the color scheme for your bathroom, and plan it according to the color bathtub you want.

Compare prices Once you have picked a color for your bathroom and bathtub, it is time to shop. If you don't mind spontaneously walking into a store not knowing what is there, you can leave without calling. However, if you are like most people, and do not have a lot of time on your hands. You would be better off calling first. You can find out which stores have what you need, in the size you need it. Also, if you want to find a bathtub without having to pick up the phone, you can search the internet at some of your favorite stores. This will help save a lot of time, and is less tired than having to travel to the store. Once you know what you want, you can either have it shipped to you, or you can pick it up. For a purchase such as a bathtub, it is beneficial to choose a merchant as close to your region as possible. This would be in case you find a defect in your bathtub and you have to return it.

Now you know five things that most people do not know about purchasing a bathtub. However, you should still keep this article handy. You can use the same above before purchasing your toilet and sink. Pretty soon, you will have the best looking bathroom on your block.

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One excellent use for wood molding is as door trim. There are a number of different door trim styles in wood molding, and any of them would make an excellent choice for the room you are attempting to finish. In many homes, the molding simply meets with mitered corners. However, for a slightly more decorative look, simple wood blocks can be installed in the corners.

Another use for wood molding is as a baseboard. Baseboards need to be durable. The whole point of a baseboard is wall protection, and you simply cannot get the protection you need with synthetic materials. Wood molding will provide the durability and beauty your baseboards need to have. With wood molding, clean up is a snap should someone's stray shoe catch the baseboard.

A third use for wood molding is as window casing. Because windows, like doors, need some type of framing to cover the seams in the walls, wood molding is a classic choice. Like with the door trim, window casing corners are typically mitered, but wood molding offers more decorative choices to spice up your window environment.

An additional use for wood molding is as a chair rail. When people sit in your dining room and leave the table, the backs of their chairs probably touch the wall. While this is not always a problem for homeowners, in homes where the dining room is used frequently, or children are present, this constant contact with the wall can become very damaging. Wood molding can not only cover current damage, it can also prevent the damage from occurring again. The strength of the material will prevent problems like scratches and dents from occurring in your dining room area.

A fifth use for wood molding is as crown molding. Crown molding tops the walls next to the ceiling. It is thought that this type of molding makes the transition from the wall to the ceiling a bit smoother and easier. Wood is a perfect choice for this area because with so many options, you can create the distinct look you love.

Another use for wood moldings is as a handrail on your stair ways. Hand rails provide both security and beauty to your stairs. It can be difficult to go down the stairs without stumbling in the middle of the night to answer a late night doorbell. Having a hand rail in place makes this easier and safer. Having a wood handrail in place makes this trip a little smoother. The durability and look of a wood molding handrail will do much to increase your confidence when Grandma leans so heavily on the rail just to get up the stairs to your guest bedroom.

A seventh use for wood moldings is as a base shoe. Base shoes trim flooring materials and conceal differences between the floor and the baseboard. Wood is a great choice here, because it tends to offer the best compatibility between the floor and the wall.

An eighth use for wood moldings is as a fireplace mantle. Wood stands up best to the heat of the area surrounding your fireplace, and Santa would rather look at nothing less than the beauty of wood as he is filling your stocking each Christmas Eve.

A ninth use for wood moldings in your home is as a plinth block. Plinth blocks are placed where the baseboard meets the casing. They add durability and beauty to your moldings.

A final use for wood moldings in your home is as a wainscoting cap. If you decide on a panel option like wainscoting, you need a durable cap to smooth the transition back to the plaster wall. Wood moldings can do this in style.

You can use wood moldings almost anywhere in your home to add durability and value. When you think moldings, think wood.

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Read this list about the don'ts of rinsing the wrong thing, and not keeping a drain clean.

Food. Don't rinse foods down you sink unless you have a garbage disposal, it'll stop it up. This includes things such as pop corn kernels, peelings from any vegetable or fruit, pasta shells, breads or butters. All of these can form a plug between your sink and line for drainage to the outside. Breads and butters are really bad about clogging up a line because it forms a gooey mixture, and clings to the sides and bottom of the line.

Grease. It doesn't matter what type of grease it is. Nor does it matter if it's hot or cold grease. Hot grease won't clean a line nor run any faster down a drain. It clings to the sides of it and forms a hard plug. It thickens very fast when exposed to the cooler lines beneath your sink. Always dispose of grease after it's cooled in an air tight container either in the refrigerator or left on a counter top. Dispose of your grease into the garbage after it's cooled.

Detergents. Using a dish washing liquid that's made for sink usage is the only thing you should put down your sink. Other types of detergents made for car washing or even for the dishwasher will clog it up, especially if you use in abundance. It seems logical that you'd be able to use a dishwasher liquid in the sink. However the force of the dishwashers agitating action breaks apart the thicker detergent where you just rinsing it down the drain will not. The same applies for a clothes washer too. The detergent itself is exposed to the agitating and breaks down.

Pesticides. Never pour toxic pesticides down your sink. They can when mixed with water congeal, and form hard cores in the sink line. Besides it eats out the lines and causes leaks to occur. Dispose of them properly.

Calcium Chlorate and Lime. Some people that are on septic systems have poured excessive amounts of calcium chlorate down a sink line drain to get rid of odor. It's true some products consist of these substances, but they are specially formulated for sink usage. Bags of calcium chlorate and lime will cause a plug not only to develop at the sink goose neck, but farther down the line too. When calcium chlorate gets wet it turns to cement and hardens. Never pour the powered form down you sink lines because it will break off down the line and cause a secondary plug.

Outside Oils. As with grease from the kitchen never allow mechanical or cleaning oils down your sink. Outside cleaning oils have a strong petroleum based formulation. Lubricating oils for joints or hinges, and motor oil are two of the tops on the list. People have poured this down their sinks, and had horrible plugs in the drain sink lines. You need to know that it's against the EPA, Environmental Protection Agency to pour motor oil in anything besides a designated container for it. You could get into huge legal and financial trouble if any traces of it show up in a water contamination test. It's not worth the risk, and it's bad for the environment too.

Inside Oils. Your lines won't appreciated having baby oils, liquid eye liners, bottles of very oily based moisturizing oils, and hunks of oil based soaps shoved down its drain lines. Dispose of them properly by leaving them in the container, or poured into another container if you want to reuse the bottles. Pick out the soap and throw away in the garbage too.

Hair is another thing that will stop up your drain. Use a hair trap on all drains so it won't stop up your lines. Also conduct a monthly hair sweep, and clean out all drains in the house, and that does include your kitchen drain too. Every month or so pour a reliable drain cleaner down your lines, so there won't be any more plugged drains to fight with.

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Wood biscuits join two pieces of wood together. Something a bit more than glue is often required for most wood working projects. The projects often require panels of twelve inches or more to be joined without the overwhelming presence of seams. Glue is both fine and necessary, but excellent woodworking projects simply cannot survive on glue alone. Biscuits are both simple, and quick to use. A biscuit joiner, the tool that helps you insert a biscuit, cuts the hole in the opposite edges of the project you are working with. You then cover your wood biscuit in glue and insert it in the slot. Clamp the two boards together, and you are on your way to finishing one of the best woodworking projects you have ever made.

Biscuits are both strong and durable. They can act as joiners where glue simply will not hold. Most biscuits are comprised of compressed wood components. This usually means something like beech shavings, but the actual composition can vary from company to company. Once the glue joins with the biscuit in the slot you have made with your biscuit joiner, the biscuit is allowed to expand to fill the slot. This has the effect of tightening the joint, allowing you to work with it and smooth it more than you ever thought possible.

Most biscuits are slightly less than one fourteenth of an inch thick, though it is possible to purchase them in varying thicknesses from different wood biscuit making companies. There are three common wood biscuit sizes. Size number zero is five eighths of an inch wide and one and three quarter inches long. Size number ten is three quarters of an inch wide and two and one eighths of an inch long. Size number twenty is one inch wide and two and three eighths of an inch long. As with the thickness of wood biscuits, some manufacturers make different biscuit sizes. If you are looking for a specific size, it might be good to check around from company to company.

The best biscuit size to use is the best size that suits your purpose. You should try to use the largest sized biscuit for your project. This will increase the stability of your woodworking project. While you can use a wood biscuit on any joint project, there are a few common joints where they are used. Anytime you are manufacturing an edge to edge joint, like in dining room tables, end tables, or coffee tables, biscuits can be very helpful. Any time you are creating a miter joint, like with a picture frame, biscuits can add stability to the project. When you need to use butt joinery or end to end joints, biscuits offer you the strength you need. In places where corner joints are necessary, like drawers, biscuits are not only helpful, they're traditional. In the case of T joints, like you might use when you create a book shelf, a biscuit can offer you that little bit of extra stability you have been searching for.

When you get ready to start using wood biscuits as a joinery tool, there are a few things to remember. First, biscuit storage is a bit touchy. You should always store wood biscuits in a clean, dry, airtight container. The nature of wood biscuits makes them very susceptible to moisture. Moisture can cause them to swell, which makes them useless for woodworking purposes. Second, be sure to check and recheck the way your joints fit together before you start your project. Dry fitting your components is not just a good idea; it is a necessity in the world of wood biscuits.

Wood biscuits are typically sold in bulk at hardware stores and other hardware retailers. With the popularity of internet shopping, you can even buy them at most online woodworking specialty shops in various sizes.

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Electrical projects do not fall in the trial-and-error category. However, all homeowners do need to perform some basic electrical repairs. Before attempting to fix electrical problems, follow the steps below to ensure a safe and successful repair.

Do I have your permission?

Depending on where you live, you may or may not need a permit from your local electrical authority to do electrical work on your own home. According to the Oregon Department of Business and Consumer Services (ODBCS), homeowners do not need a permit "to replace electrical devices or to perform the maintenance on an existing electrical installation." However, the ODBCS states that a permit is require to:

install or alter any permanent wiring or electrical device

run additional wiring, put in an electrical outlet or light fixture, install a receptacle for a garage-door opener, or convert from fuse box to circuit breakers

install or alter low-voltage systems such as security alarms or stereo or computer systems

The laws about permits vary from state to state, so be sure to check with your local office about whether you are required to have a permit or not.

Lights out.

Turn off electrical power at the source, through a circuit breaker. Even if you flip a wall switch, the related appliance or socket will still be live. Although many electrical distribution panels have a diagram on them detailing which circuit is hooked up to which breaker, do not trust them.

Check for yourself that the circuit is dead by using a voltage tester. For this part of the process a helper can be quite useful, to prevent you from scurrying to and from, from the circuit breaker or fuse box to test the circuit and back again. Tape the circuit breaker into the "off" position to ensure that no helpful person tries to restore power while you're working. Do not restore power until you have completed your work.

Although you can turn off a switch or breakers, the main wires entering an electrical distribution panel from the outside can not be turned off. Do not touch these wires, and do not go near them with anything metal. If you believe the problem lies with the service wires, contact the power company.

Getting shocked puts a damper on things.

Do not stand in water on a damp floor. This could result in a very dangerous even life-threatening shock. If water is on the floor, put down a rubber mat to stand on. Ensure you yourself are not wet by wearing dry clothes. As always, if you have any doubts about the safety of the situation, call a professional.

Metal or rubber?

Metal is bad. Rubber is good. Metal conducts electricity, which means that if you simultaneously touch metal and a live wire, your body conducts current from one to the other. Not pleasant or healthy.

Rubber, on the other hand, is a nonconductive material and, therefore, insulates you from electricity. Use tools with rubber- or plastic-coated handles and wear rubber-soled shoes or sneakers. Safety glasses and gloves are not a bad idea, either, when feasible.

Test it out.

Once you have finished your repair work, flip the fuse or circuit breaker to return power to the area. Use a voltage tester to check and see if the appropriate amount of electricity is flowing. Conventional lights, receptacles, and appliances use 120 volts of electricity. Larger appliances such as air conditioners and electric ovens require 240 volts. Certain appliances such as doorbells and telephones utilize transformers that convert standard power to a lower voltage (usually between six and 12 volts) for safety.

To improve your electrical skills, many DIY stores offer clinics and workshops. Learn from the pros and ask questions so you feel more prepared the next time electrical work is needed. If you have any doubt about your abilities or the safety of the situation, leave it to the experts. Go work on repairing your faux finish or build new shelves while you're waiting for your friendly local electrician to arrive. And when he or she does come to the rescue, watch and learn.

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